Poultry was once a luxury enjoyed only by the rich. After World War II, modern production methods and better transportation made poultry accessible to almost every American. For a long time it was considered the bargain-priced alternative to more costly meats, but it is increasingly becoming a dinner mainstay. Price continues to be an attraction, but nutritional qualities, versatility and convenience are factors that are driving its popularity. Poultry is typically lower in fat and calories than most meats. Certain cuts can be cooked very quickly and in a variety of ways. Brillat-Savarin, the famous French gastronome, wrote in the 19th century that "poultry is for the cook what canvas is to the painter." It is as true now as it was then.

Chicken consumption continues to increase with busy cooks stocking up on convenient, quick-cooking cuts, such as skinless and boneless breast halves and economical whole chickens. Whatever their form, chickens are among the most versatile of foods. They can be cooked by any number of methods and their mild taste is complemented by a great variety of flavors.

Whole chickens range in size from about 2-1/2 to 10 pounds. The smallest, called frying chickens (also, broiler-fryers or broilers) are the most common and the most economical. As the name indicates, they are intended for frying and broiling but can also be used for braising, baking, grilling and poaching. They are young, usually about 2-1/2 months old, and weigh from 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 pounds. They are sold whole or cut into parts.

Larger chickens are called roasters. They weigh from 2-1/2 to 5 pounds or more. Somewhat older than fryers, they have more fat, making them well-suited to oven roasting. They usually are sold whole. Capons are roosters that have been castrated at an early age. This allows them to become quite meaty and plump, weighing from 4 to 10 pounds. Their tender, juicy flesh is also ideal for roasting.

Increasingly hard to find are stewing hens (also known as fowl). These older birds weigh from 3 to 6 pounds and are characterized by tough but flavorful meat. They are excellent for stewing and making soups and stocks.

Cornish game hens, also called game hens, are hybrids of small chickens. They weigh from 1 to 1-1/2 pounds and are sold whole. Their tender, juicy meat makes game hens excellent for roasting and grilling, either whole or cut into halves. One hen is often considered a serving.

Supermarkets and butcher shops offer chicken parts, with cuts and packages tailored to changing consumption patterns. Cut-up chickens are whole chickens that have generally been cut into eight pieces: two breast halves, thighs, legs and wings. The backbone may or may not be cut apart from the breasts. However, some markets may divide the bird differently, sometimes as quarters or with labels such as "choice-cuts," which can mean different things; the label usually explains exactly what is in the package. Read carefully to make sure that you are getting what you want. Whole chickens, whether whole or cut-up, contain the giblets (neck, gizzard, liver and heart). Be sure to remove them before cooking.

Chicken breasts, the white meat of the chicken, are a popular cut and one of the more costly. Breasts are available whole, with both skin and bone intact. They can also be purchased with the bone removed but the skin intact or with the skin and bone both removed. The breast is often split. Recipe references to chicken breasts usually mean a chicken breast half. The convenience of split skinless and boneless breasts is obvious, but those that are cooked on the bone often result in a juicier and more flavorful dish. Studies have shown that the breast is juicier if cooked with the skin attached. After removing and discarding the skin, the chicken does not have any more fat than chicken cooked without the skin.

Chicken "tenders" or "supremes" are the lean, tender strips that are found on the underside of the breast. They are skinless and boneless and have virtually no waste.

Other cuts include legs, also called drumsticks. These may be sold as legs only, but many are still attached to the thigh. Thighs also are available separately. Increasingly, they can be found with the skin and bone removed, making them an excellent choice for quick sautés. They can be used in place of boneless chicken breasts in many recipes, allowing cooks to take advantage of their lower price. Thighs and legs are considered dark meat, which is higher in fat but more flavorful than chicken breasts. Wings, also called drumettes, are available. These are used for appetizers or main dishes, often marinated and baked. In addition, ground chicken and chicken sausages are sold in many markets.

Free-range chickens are available in some large supermarkets, gourmet food shops and butcher shops. These chickens are raised differently than mass-produced chickens. They are allowed more freedom to roam, usually outdoors as well as indoors. In most cases they are fed a vegetarian diet that is free of antibiotics, hormones and growth enhancers. This is said to result in a better tasting product. Free-range chickens are more expensive than mass-produced chickens.

Choose chicken that is plump looking and has no unpleasant odors. The skin should be creamy white to yellow in color (diet dictates the color of the skin). Check the "freshness date" on the package, which indicates the last sale date. Chicken should keep at least two days beyond this date. Chicken is very perishable and must be handled with care. Buy it just before returning home and refrigerate it as soon as possible. Special care must be taken in warm weather to keep chicken cold when traveling back home from the supermarket.

If chicken is wrapped only in butcher paper or if the package has tears or is leaking, rewrap it in plastic wrap before refrigerating. Chicken should be stored in the coldest part of the refrigerator and used within two days after its "last sale date." However, if the chicken has an unpleasant odor or if it is slimy, discard it, regardless of the freshness date.

If you plan on freezing chicken, freeze it immediately after purchasing. Chicken should be tightly wrapped for the freezer, preferably with freezer paper or a double thickness of other wrapping. This prevents freezer burn and ensures good quality when cooked. When freezing parts, consider wrapping them individually in plastic wrap. Wrap several pieces together with freezer paper or place them in a resealable freezer bag. This will allow you to remove only the amount you need. The chicken will also thaw more quickly when separated into small packages. Ideally, the giblets should be removed from whole chickens and frozen separately; they will freeze more quickly than if left inside the bird. Also, the giblets deteriorate more quickly than chicken so they should be used within two to three months.

To thaw chicken, transfer it from the freezer to the refrigerator and allow three to four hours per pound to defrost. Or, for quicker thawing, chicken can be immersed in cold water, changing the water frequently so the chicken remains cold. Make sure the bird is wrapped in watertight packaging before immersing it in water. Cook it as soon as it is thawed. Chicken may be thawed in the microwave, following manufacturer's directions. Watch the chicken carefully so that the edges do not begin to cook before the chicken is completely thawed. The chicken must be cooked immediately, because all or part of it will reach room temperature when thawed in the microwave. Bacteria multiply rapidly at room temperature and care must be taken to minimize their growth. Never thaw chicken at room temperature.

Rinse chicken under cold running water to remove surface dirt and bone fragments. Most cooks remove all excess visible fat. Clumps of fat tend to gather around the neck and tail and can be removed by tugging with the fingers or trimming with kitchen shears or a utility knife. Each breast half has a white tendon that runs down the length of the underside. This toughens as it cooks so you may wish to remove it, when possible. To do so, grasp it at one end and use a paring knife to scrape it away from the flesh.

Some recipes call for flattening chicken breasts, so they can be filled and rolled or cooked more quickly. To flatten uncooked boneless chicken breasts, place one chicken breast half between two sheets of waxed paper or plastic wrap. Using the flat side of a meat mallet or a rolling pin, gently pound the chicken from the center to the outside until it is of the desired thickness.

There are many cooking methods that can be applied to chicken. One of the most successful is roasting a whole chicken. After removing the giblets, rinsing and removing excess fat, place the chicken in a shallow roasting pan, breast side up. It is preferable to place it on a rack, so it is about one inch off the bottom of the pan. However, this is not absolutely essential. The surface of the chicken can be lightly rubbed with butter or oil and seasoned with salt and pepper or other seasonings, if desired. Whole chickens are usually roasted at 350°F, although they may go into an oven that is preheated to a higher temperature for a brief time.

Bone-in chicken parts can be broiled, poached, grilled, braised or baked. Boneless cuts can be prepared in the same way. In addition, they can be sautéed, panfried or stir-fried. In other words, almost any cooking method works. Because chicken has a mild flavor, marinades or dry rubs are welcome additions. The purpose of this step is not to tenderize, since the meat already is tender, but to add flavor. Therefore, keep in mind that marinating can be completed in 20 to 30 minutes. Chicken should not be left in acidic marinades for more than 2 hours or the acid will break down the tissue and the flesh will become mushy. Many flavors are complementary to chicken, including garlic, onion, mustard, most fresh and dried herbs, curry, chilies, citrus juice and wine. These can be added to marinades or simple sauces.

There are a number of ways to determine if chicken is thoroughly cooked and ready to eat. For whole chickens, a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh, but not near any bone or fat, should register 180°F before removing the chicken from the oven. If a whole chicken is stuffed, insert an instant-read thermometer into the center of the body cavity; when the stuffing registers 165°F, it is done. (Chicken should be stuffed immediately before roasting; never stuff a chicken ahead of time.) Roasted whole chicken breasts are done when they register 170°F on a meat thermometer.

To test bone-in chicken pieces, you should be able to insert a fork into the chicken with ease and the juices should run clear; however, the meat and juices nearest the bones might still be a little pink even though the chicken is cooked thoroughly. Boneless chicken pieces are done when the centers are no longer pink; you can determine this by simply cutting into the chicken with a paring knife.

Cornish game hens can be roasted whole at 375°F for 1 to 1-1/2 hours. If they are stuffed, add an additional 15 to 20 minutes to the cooking time. For grilling, the hens can be split by cutting through the breastbone and backbone with a utility knife or kitchen shears. This allows them to rest flat on the grill for even cooking. The backbone may be trimmed away before grilling.

If Ben Franklin's wish had prevailed, the native American turkey, not the bald eagle, would have been chosen as the national emblem. Of course, on Thanksgiving, it is the turkey that symbolizes all-things American. Recently, the popularity of turkey has increased. Like chicken, turkey is economical, nutritious and versatile.

Almost all turkeys sold in the United States are of the White Holland variety, a type that is bred to have mild, juicy meat with a high proportion of white meat, which Americans favor. Toms (male) and hens (female) are available. Hens are somewhat smaller on the average. The overall trend is toward smaller turkeys. Although it is increasingly difficult to find birds larger than 25 pounds, smaller families welcome the 10-pound turkeys now available on the market.

Fresh and frozen turkeys are available. Both can be of excellent quality. Many are self-basting, which helps to keep the breast meat moist. If fat content is a consideration, read the ingredient list carefully, because some turkeys are basted with butter or vegetable oil. Those with broth are lower in fat.

An array of turkey parts is available. Many of them are breast parts. Turkey breasts, sold whole or as halves, are available with the bone in, boned and rolled, as boneless halves, and as breast cutlets. Except for the cutlets, the breast parts can be roasted, stewed, grilled, braised or cut into pieces and used in stews and sautés. Cutlets can be sautéed or braised. Drumsticks and thighs also are available. They can be prepared by the same methods as the breast parts. Fresh ground turkey is sold in most supermarkets and can be used in place of ground beef in many recipes. It has soared in popularity due to a lower fat content. Read the label carefully; if skin or fat is ground along with the meat, the amount of fat and cholesterol will increase.

Choose fresh whole turkey that is plump looking and has no unpleasant odors. Packaging should be free of tears. Check "freshness date" on the package, which indicates the last sale date. Always keep turkey cold.

Store fresh turkey in the coldest part of the refrigerator and use within two days of the "last sale date."

Remove stuffing from a whole turkey immediately after roasting. Leftover roast turkey stuffing should be refrigerated within two hours after cooking. Large amounts of stuffing and a large turkey should be divided into several smaller packages to allow quick chilling. Stuffing will keep up to two days and turkey up to four days. If you intend to freeze some of the leftover turkey, do so the day it is cooked, not after several days of refrigerator storage.

Whole turkey must be thawed in the refrigerator. When thawing a whole turkey, remember that this is a lengthy process, taking as long as four days for a large 25-pound bird. It is preferable to thaw turkey parts in the refrigerator. Never thaw turkey at room temperature.

After thawing, remove the giblets from the neck and body cavities. Wash the inside and outside of the turkey under cold water and drain well. Do not stuff a turkey until you are ready to cook it. Never put hot stuffing in a cold turkey.

Whole turkeys are usually roasted in an open pan at 325°F. Timing for an unstuffed turkey is about 20 minutes per pound; allow a little more time if the turkey is stuffed. Let the turkey stand, covered loosely with foil, for 15 to 20 minutes before slicing. During this standing time, the internal temperature will rise at least 5°F and the juices set up, making it easier to carve. Be sure to allow for standing time when planning a meal.

A meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh, but not near any bone or fat, should register 180° to 185°F before removing the turkey from the oven. If a turkey is stuffed, a thermometer may be inserted into the center of the body cavity; when the stuffing registers 165°F, the turkey should be done. However, it is essential to also check the temperature of the thigh.

Some turkeys have pop-up timers to indicate doneness. However, they should not be considered a reliable indication of doneness. Use them only as a guide and rely on a meat thermometer for an accurate indication of internal temperature.

Poultry, especially chicken, may be contaminated with salmonella bacteria, a harmful microorganism that causes food poisoning, so careful handling is essential. Do not let the juices from uncooked poultry mingle with other foods, either in the grocery cart at the store, in the refrigerator or on the counter at home. Wash any surfaces and utensils, including your hands, that have come in contact with raw poultry, using hot, soapy water. Always cook poultry thoroughly. (See Testing for Doneness for more information.) Care also needs to be taken when transporting, storing and thawing poultry. (See Buying Tips, Storage and Thawing for additional information.)