Wine, which is grape juice that has been fermented and aged in a painstaking process, is at its best when enjoyed with food. Sometimes this simple fact is forgotten among the endless array of wines and the complex set of rules for serving them. With a little knowledge and some experimentation, you can gain the confidence needed to serve wine with meals.

Fortified wines are wines that have brandy or other alcohol added to them for the purpose of increasing their alcoholic content. Examples include sherry, Madeira, marsala and port. Fortified wines are served before or after dinner.

Nonvintage wines are made from the juice of grapes harvested during different years. The label, therefore, does not include a year.

Sparkling wines contain carbon dioxide, which gives them their characteristic bubbly quality. France's Champagne, the most well-known sparkling wine, and Italy's spumante are examples. They are most often served before dinner.

Still wines are nonsparkling wines. They can be further classified by color (white, red and rosé) and by flavor (dry, semisweet and sweet). Dry and semisweet still wines are primarily dinner wines. They are also served before dinner. Sweet wines are served with dessert.

Table wines are usually inexpensive and meant for everyday use. They are generally blends of different varieties of grapes. Table wines may be white, red or rosé.

Varietal wines are made from one kind of grape. Thus they have the characteristic of that grape. Varietals may be vintage or nonvintage wines. Examples include Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonay, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Zinfandel.

Vintage wines are made mostly from grapes harvested in the same year. That year appears on the label.

The often-heard rule of serving white wine with fish and chicken and red wine with meat certainly has some merit, but there are exceptions and the rule fails to mention meatless dishes. Some fish, such as salmon, pair well with lighter red wines while an assertive white wine can hold its own with some meat. Sweeter wines require careful partnering with food. The sweetest wines are best served after dinner rather than with meals. When pairing a sweet wine with a dessert, the wine should be sweeter than the dessert or the flavor of the wine will be lost.

Listed in Wine with Food Chart (in Index) are some common pairings of food and wine. Use them as your guidelines when selecting wine to serve with food. Learn about wines by tasting them alone and with different foods. When you dine out, order wine by the glass. Ask waiters for their recommendations. Attend wine tastings at wine shops. When entertaining, select your menu and then the wine. Ask a knowledgeable wine store clerk or friend for guidance. The more you experiment, the more you will learn. Soon you will have a list of good wine and food combinations that you can serve with confidence.

White wine is best served at 50° to 55°F. Place it in the refrigerator for two hours before serving. Store red wine in a cool (65°F) place or chill it for about 15 minutes prior to serving. Red wines often benefit from being opened 10 to 15 minutes before serving; this allows them to "breath." Tradition suggests special glasses for different types of wine. Red wine glasses generally are larger than white wine glasses to allow enough room in the glass for the more aromatic red wines to be swirled. However, many perfectly suitable "all-purpose" wine glasses are sold. Fill wine glasses only half full. This allows room for the wine to be swirled thus releasing its aroma or bouquet.

Wines of all sorts are used in cooking. Special cooking wines available in supermarkets are not recommended because they are often inferior in quality and contain salt. However, there is no need to use fine vintages for cooking. It is not economical. Leftover wine that is no longer good for drinking can be used in cooking. Wine can be omitted in most recipes that call for it, although adjustments in the amount of liquid may be required.

Wine should be stored in a cool place with a consistent temperature between 45° and 65°F (55°F is ideal). Store it away from light and vibration. Do not turn or move stored wine. If this preferred way of storing wine is not possible in your home, buy wine only as you need it. To prevent corks from drying out and air from entering bottles, store wine on its side.

Wine loses flavor quickly when exposed to oxygen. Leftover wine should be sealed tightly and stored in the refrigerator for a day or two. Wine stores sell canned gases that can be injected into a partially full bottle of wine that will protect the flavor of wine for slightly longer storage.