Tomatoes are the third most widely consumed vegetable in the United States, lagging behind potatoes and lettuce. It is estimated that more than 85 percent of home gardeners plant tomatoes. Tomatoes are one of a few foods that are native to the Western Hemisphere. It is generally believed that they originated in the coastal highlands of western South America. They appeared later in Central America where Mayan Indians used them as food. With the conquest of Mexico in 1519, tomatoes were carried eastward to Europe. Although Europeans at first believed tomatoes to be poisonous, the Spaniards and Italians eventually found many culinary uses for them. By the early 1900's, tomatoes were considered a staple of American cookery, invaluable both canned and fresh.

There are literally hundreds of varieties of tomatoes, but consumers are limited to what the market offers. Most supermarkets offer three types: globe, plum and cherry tomatoes. Globe tomatoes are the common all-purpose tomatoes. Some varieties are yellow. They are served raw or cooked. Plum tomatoes, sometimes called Italian tomatoes, are small and oval in shape. Since they are fleshier than most globe tomatoes, they are a good choice for sauce making. Cherry tomatoes are small tomatoes, 1 inch in diameter, that are ideal for snacking, salads and garnishes. Yellow cherry tomatoes and small yellow pear tomatoes are occasionally available. These tomatoes are less acidic than red tomatoes. Green tomatoes are unripened. Firm and tart, green tomatoes are excellent for pickling and frying.

Fresh tomatoes are available all year although locally grown summer tomatoes are superior to all others. The best hybrids are found at farmers' markets. Depending on the area, tomato season usually begins in mid-summer and lasts through September. Winter tomatoes often are labeled as "vine-ripened," when, in fact, they have been picked green and ripened with ethylene gas so they can be shipped and stored. This process prevents them from reaching their full flavor potential and burdens them with a mealy texture. Tomatoes from Israel also help fill the winter gap. Occasionally, these are of better quality, especially if they are sold still attached to the vine. Plum tomatoes are often a better off-season choice for salads than globes. Canned tomatoes are a good alternative to off-season tomatoes, especially for cooking purposes. There are many forms of canned tomatoes, including whole, diced, wedges, stewed, crushed and puréed. Some are flavored. Sun-dried tomatoes, either dry-packed or in oil, have an intense tomato flavor and chewy texture.

In season, tomatoes should be plump and heavy with a vibrant color and a pleasant aroma. They should be firm but not hard. A soft tomato will either be watery or overripe. Avoid those that are cracked or have soft spots.

1 pound tomatoes = 3 medium globe; 8 plum; 2 cups chopped.

Tomatoes should never be refrigerated before cutting, because cold temperatures cause their flesh to become mealy and lose flavor. Store them at room temperature. Ripening can be hastened by placing them in a paper bag.

To prepare tomatoes for salads or sandwiches, wash tomatoes under cold running water. Cut out the stems and core the tomatoes with a paring knife. Tomatoes do not need to be peeled for these uses. Slice tomatoes with a serrated knife, if possible. Otherwise, puncture the skin with the point of a knife and then slice with a sharp utility knife.

To prepare tomatoes for cooking, they should generally be peeled and seeded. Tomato skins will shrivel and toughen when cooked, and tomato seeds in sauces are not attractive. To peel tomatoes, cut an "X" in the skin of the bottom of each tomato. Drop the tomatoes into a pan of boiling water. Cook ripe tomatoes 10 to 15 seconds or firm tomatoes 20 seconds. Remove the tomatoes with a slotted spoon and plunge them into a bowl of cold water. When the tomatoes are cool, slip off the skins with a paring knife.

To seed a tomato, cut it in half crosswise. Holding each tomato half over a bowl, cut side down, gently squeeze the tomato to remove the seeds. An alternative method is to remove the seeds with a small spoon.

To soften dry sun-dried tomatoes, cover them with hot water for 30 minutes or boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain them before using. Drain oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes before using. They may be rinsed in hot water to remove the oil.