Related to squash, the pumpkin is a member of the gourd family. The word is derived from the French word pompion and the Greek word pepon meaning "cooked by the sun." The stringy yellowish-orange flesh has a sweet flavor and can be used in recipes calling for winter squash. Pumpkins vary in weight from several pounds to as much as 100 pounds. Indigenous to the United States, pumpkins were used by Native Americans who boiled them, baked them, added them to soups, and made breads and puddings with ground dried pumpkin meal. Since pumpkins were introduced to the early settlers, pumpkin pie has been a traditional Thanksgiving dessert. Because of the lengthy preparation time for cooking and puréeing pumpkin, many cooks purchase processed pumpkin for baking and cooking.

Most of the pumpkins sold in October for jack-o'-lanterns are field pumpkins. Pumpkins for baking and cooking are called sugar or cheese pumpkins. They are much smaller in size and have a deep, rich sweet flavor and a meaty, less stringy texture than jack-o'-lantern pumpkins.

Fresh pumpkins can be purchased September through November. Canned pumpkin is available all year. Pumpkin seeds are dried and sold roasted and salted; they may or may not be hulled. Pumpkin seeds are used for snacking and in Mexican cooking. They are called pepitas in Spanish.

Choose pumpkins that are heavy for their size and free of blemishes.

3 pounds fresh pumpkin = 3 cups cooked, mashed.

1 (16- to 17-ounce) can = 2 cups pumpkin purée.

Fresh whole pumpkins can be stored at room temperature for up to one month or in the refrigerator for several months. Canned pumpkin can be kept in a cool, dry place for up to one year. Refrigerate any opened canned pumpkin in a tightly covered nonmetal container for five days.

Wash pumpkin under cold running water to remove dirt. To purée a sugar pumpkin, cut off the top and bottom with a chef's knife. Place the pumpkin on a cutting board on one end. Starting at the top and working towards the bottom, slice off the skin in wide strips, following the curve of the pumpkin. Cut the pumpkin in half and scoop out the seeds. Cut the flesh into 2-inch chunks. Steam over boiling water for 15 to 20 minutes or until tender. Purée the pumpkin in batches in a food processor or mash with a potato masher until smooth.

To toast pumpkin seeds, carefully separate the seeds from fibers. Wash, drain and dry seeds on paper towels. Coat the seeds lightly with vegetable oil. If desired, season seeds with a mixture of 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce and 1/2 teaspoon ground red pepper. Spread seeds on a baking sheet. Bake in a 275°F oven, stirring occasionally, until golden brown.