Hundreds of pepper varieties exist in a multitude of shapes, sizes and colors. They range in flavor from mild and sweet to fiery hot. All are members of the Capsicum family and are native to tropical areas of the Western Hemisphere. Peppers were introduced to Europe and Asia after Christopher Columbus brought back to Spain, along with other New World treasures, the plant that produces peppers.

The most familiar sweet pepper is the green pepper, also known as the bell pepper for its bell-like shape. Green peppers are picked before they ripen. When ripe, a bell pepper is red, yellow, orange, white or purple, depending on the variety. They are sweeter and crisper than green peppers. Pimientos are large, heart-shaped red sweet peppers. Banana peppers are long, tapered pale yellow peppers. They have thin walls and a sweet flavor.

Green peppers are grown in almost every state in the United States and are abundantly available year-round in supermarkets. Their season peaks between July and November. Red peppers are generally more expensive because the yield is lower from each plant. However, they are more abundant and, consequently, less expensive toward the end of the green pepper season. Most speciality colored peppers are imported from Holland and are becoming more available in supermarkets. They tend to be very expensive.

All peppers should be firm, crisp and feel heavy for their size. They should be shiny and brightly colored and their stems should be green and hard. Avoid peppers that have wrinkles, soft spots or bruises. If you plan to stuff or peel peppers, purchase round, blocky peppers rather than oddly-shaped peppers.

1 large bell pepper = 1 cup chopped; 1-1/4 cups strips.

Store unwashed sweet peppers in the refrigerator. Green peppers begin to lose their crispness after three to four days, and red peppers are even more perishable. Once cut, refrigerate peppers, wrapped in plastic wrap, and use them quickly.

Peppers should be washed under cold running water before using. To slice or chop, stand a bell pepper on its end on a cutting board. Cut off 3 to 4 lengthwise slices from the sides with a utility knife, cutting close to, but not through, the stem.

Discard the stem and seeds. Scrape out any remaining seeds and rinse the inside of the pepper under cold running water. Slice each piece lengthwise into long strips or cut into pieces.

To prepare a pepper for stuffing or slicing into rings, the stem must be removed. Make a circular cut around the top of the pepper with a paring knife. Pull the stem from the pepper to remove it. Carefully cut out the membrane and seeds; discard. Rinse the inside of the pepper under cold running water. To form rings, slice crosswise through the pepper with a utility knife.

To roast bell peppers, preheat the broiler. Place whole peppers on a foil-covered broiler pan 4 inches from the heat source. Broil 15 to 20 minutes until blackened on all sides, turning the peppers every 5 minutes with tongs.

To loosen their skins, steam blackened peppers by placing them in a paper bag immediately after roasting. Close the bag and set it aside to cool for 15 to 20 minutes. To peel peppers, cut around the cores, twist and remove them. Cut peppers in half; place on a cutting board. Peel off their skins with a paring knife and rinse them under cold water to remove the seeds. Lay the halves flat and slice them lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips with a utility knife.

Chili peppers make up 90 percent of the Capsicum family. There are over 100 varieties of chili peppers in Mexico alone, each with its own distinct flavor. Chilies are sold both fresh and dried. A general rule to follow is that the smaller the chili, the hotter the taste (although this is not guaranteed). The heat of chilies can even vary within a variety. Cayenne, paprika, hot pepper sauce, red pepper flakes, chili oil, chili powder and harissa are all products from chilies. The most common varieties of chilies available in the United States follow:

• Anaheim chilies, also known as California green chilies, are light green with a mild flavor and a slight bite. They are 4 to 6 inches long, about 1-1/2 inches wide and have a rounded tip.
• Ancho peppers are fairly large, triangular-shaped dried poblano chilies. They are medium to dark reddish-brown in color. Anchos are full-flavored, ranging from mild to medium-hot. They are often ground for use in cooked sauces, such as mole.
• Chipotles are smoked, dried red jalapeño peppers. They have a rich, smoky, very hot flavor. They are commonly canned in adobo sauce.
• De árbol chili peppers are very small, slender dried chilies with a smooth, bright red skin and a very hot flavor.
• Jalapeño peppers are small, dark green chilies, normally 2 to 3 inches long and about 3/4 of an inch wide with a blunt or slightly tapered end. Their flavor varies from hot to very hot. Ripe jalapeño peppers are red and sweeter than the green jalapeño. They are also sold canned or pickled.
• Mulatos are large, triangular-shaped dried chilies that have wrinkled, blackish-brown skin. Its flavor is rich, pungent and medium-hot. Mulatos are often used in red mole sauce.
• Pasillas are long, slender medium-sized dried chilies with wrinkled, blackish-brown skin. Their flavor is pungent, ranging from mild to hot.
• Poblano peppers are very dark green, large triangular-shaped chilies with pointed ends. Poblanos are usually 3-1/2 to 5 inches long. This is the pepper most frequently used for chiles relleños, a dish of stuffed chilies. Their flavor ranges from mild to quite hot. For a milder flavor, Anaheims can be substituted.
• Serrano peppers are very small, medium-green or red chilies with a very hot flavor. Serranos are also available pickled.

Chili peppers, especially jalapeños, are becoming more popular and are finding their way into more supermarkets. The availability of fresh chili peppers varies according to the variety and the season, but they are most likely to be found in supermarkets between July and November when sweet peppers are in season. Not all varieties are available in all areas at all times but substitutions can be made. Latin markets stock a large variety of chilies. Dried chilies are available year-round either loose or in packages and canned.

All varieties of fresh chili peppers should be firm, crisp and have unblemished skins. They should have shiny, bright coloring and green stems. Avoid limp chilies that have soft spots or wrinkled skin.

Fresh chilies will keep for several weeks refrigerated in a plastic bag lined with paper towels. Dried chilies should be kept in an airtight container in a cool, dry place. They will keep for six months.

All fresh chilies should be rinsed and patted dry with paper towels. To limit the amount of heat in a dish, remove the veins and seeds from the chili. Cut them lengthwise into halves with a utility knife. Scrape out and discard the stems, seeds and veins, if desired. Cut the peppers into coarse pieces.

To use dried chilies, place them in a saucepan, cover them with water and bring them to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let the chilies stand until they are softened. Remove the stems and seeds. Chop or purée the peppers in a blender with a small amount of water to form a paste.

The heat of the chilies comes from a substance known as capsaicin located in the seeds, in the veins (the thin inner membranes to which the seeds are attached) and in the parts nearest the veins. The oils from the seeds and veins can be very irritating to the skin and can cause painful burning of the hands, eyes and lips. Use rubber or plastic gloves when handling chilies and do not touch your face or eyes. Wash your hands well in warm soapy water after handling. If you eat too much chili pepper at once, resist the urge to drink water, which spreads the capsaicin. Bread, rice or yogurt work well to put the fire out.