After visiting the West Indies, Christopher Columbus wrote in his journal about a large melon that sustained the natives and made them "very strong." He called it "fruit of the angels." He was referring to a subtropical fruit commonly known as the papaya. The papaya is native to the Western Hemisphere, most likely the Caribbean, but early in its history, it spread to other subtropical areas. Today, the fruit is grown in Brazil, Costa Rica, India, China, Japan, Malaysia, the Philippines and Hawaii. Most of the papayas sold in the United States are domestically grown in Hawaii or imported from Central or South America.

The fruits, which are shaped like elongated melons or pears, vary in size from about 1/2 pound to 15 pounds or more (a huge specimen that can provide a feast for a dozen or so diners). Smooth and green when unripe, the exterior develops a yellow-gold color as it ripens. Inside, the deep yellow flesh is succulent and sweet, with more natural sugar than most fruits. It has a musky melonlike taste. The inner cavity contains a wealth of small black seeds, which are often discarded. However, the seeds are edible. They have a pungent, peppery bite.

• Papayas are eaten raw, often seasoned with salt, ground pepper and a squirt of lime juice.
• Papayas also can be used in salads and salsas or puréed and used in puddings and mousses.
• Their flesh has a natural tenderizing effect so it can be puréed and used to marinate meats.
• The enzyme papain, which is responsible for its tenderizing abilities, also inhibits gelatin from thickening. Therefore, raw papaya is not suitable for any preparation containing gelatin. However, cooked papaya presents no problem.
• Unripe, green papayas are cooked and eaten as a vegetable rather than as a fruit. They are also pickled or cooked in chutneys.
• Use papaya seeds as a garnish on sliced papaya or fruit salads.

Many large supermarkets stock papayas all year. Summer is the peak season.

Unripe papayas are green. They turn yellow as they ripen. Papayas are fragile when ripe, so completely ripe ones are not usually found in the supermarket. Select fruit that has begun to yellow and yields to gentle pressure. Avoid papayas that are green, shriveled or marked with dark spots. Check for signs of rot at the small end.

1 pound papaya = about 3 cups chopped and 1/2 cup seeds.

Unripe papayas should be kept at room temperature until they are fully ripened. Ripe fruits can be stored in the refrigerator for two or three days.

For the simplest presentation, the fruit can be cut lengthwise into halves, the seeds scooped out and the flesh eaten with a spoon. For sliced or cubed papaya, peel the papaya with a vegetable peeler or a paring knife. Cut the fruit into halves, remove the seeds and slice or cube the flesh.