Puckery and tart, to be sure, limes possess an elusive perfumed aroma and slightly exotic taste. These vibrant, green citrus fruits are overshadowed by lemons in popularity. Nonetheless, they are indispensible, quite unique and valuable in their own right. They grow in most tropical and subtropical regions, including the Caribbean, Mexico, Florida and California.

• An indispensible ingredient in a well-stocked bar, limes are used as garnish in such drinks as gin and tonic and rum and Coca-Cola. Their juice forms the tart, refreshing base for margaritas, gimlets, daiquiris and many other tropical drinks.
• Lime juice is used to "cook" fish and scallops in the Latin American dish known as seviche.
• It is added to guacamole and many Mexican soups and marinades.
• A wedge of lime is served along with the Italian appetizer of melon and prosciutto.
• It is a favorite flavor for sherbet and, of course, is used in Key lime pie.

The Persian lime, grassy green in color and somewhat oval, is by far the most common in the United States. Key limes, from Florida and the Caribbean, are smaller, rounder and tarter. They have an obvious yellow tint to the skin and a marked floral aroma.

Persian limes are in ready supply all year, with Mexican imports supplementing domestic supplies at certain times of the year. Lime juice is available bottled and frozen. Key limes are only occasionally available outside Florida. Specialty markets may carry bottled Key lime juice.

Select firm, heavy specimens that have a natural sheen to their skin. Avoid those that appear to be dried out or that are light for their size. Small brown patches on the skin, called scald, are not indicative of poor quality.

1 pound Persian limes = 6 to 8 medium.

1 medium lime = 1-1/2 tablespoons juice and 1-1/2 teaspoons grated peel.

Store limes in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

If the peel is to be used, the limes must be thoroughly scrubbed in warm, soapy water to remove wax and any traces of insecticide. To remove the peel or zest (colored part only), use a box-shaped grater or a special tool called a zester (see Orange entry for this technique).

A vegetable peeler also works if used carefully. Do not to remove any of the white pith underneath, as this has bitter taste. The large pieces of peel can then be sliced into paper-thin strips for use as a garnish or minced for use as an ingredient.

More juice will be available if the limes are at room temperature. Roll them around on the counter under the flat of your hand before cutting them in half. This releases juice from the small juice-filled sacs. Use a reamer or juicer, either hand or electric, to extract juice.