These vibrant yellow fruits, which probably originated in the Indus Valley of Asia about 2500 years ago, have a remarkable range of culinary possibilities. Lemons are essential to lemonade, lemon meringue pie, lemon bars and lemon cake. A squirt of lemon enhances tomato juice, ice tea, fish, shellfish, many vegetables and melon. It can be used in salad dressings as a refreshing change from vinegar and lends homemade mayonnaise a wonderful flavor. Most domestic lemons come from groves in California, although a few are grown in Arizona and Florida.

There is an abundant supply of lemons all year. They are, however, easily damaged by frost and an unseasonable cold spell may cause prices to rise. Bottled and frozen lemon juice are readily available, with frozen having a truer flavor than bottled.

Lemons should be firm and heavy for their size, with a sheen to the skin. Avoid those that have any sign of green, which indicates that they are unripe. Thin-skinned lemons usually yield more juice, but it is easier to remove the zest and the peel of thick-skinned ones.

1 pound lemons = 3 large or 5 medium.

1 lemon = 3 tablespoons juice and about 2 teaspoons grated peel.

Store lemons in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to three weeks. Check them periodically for signs of mold. A cut lemon tightly wrapped in plastic will keep for two or three days before its flavor begins to deteriorate.

If the peel is to be used, the lemons must be thoroughly scrubbed in warm, soapy water to remove wax and any traces of insecticide. To remove the peel or zest (colored portion only), use a box-shaped grater or a special tool called a zester (see Orange entry for zester technique).

A vegetable peeler also works if used carefully. Do not to remove any of the white pith underneath, as this has a bitter taste. The large pieces then can be sliced into paper-thin strips for use as a garnish or minced for use as an ingredient.

More juice will be available if the lemons are at room temperature. If time is short, warm a cold lemon in a microwave oven at HIGH power for about 30 seconds. Roll them around on the counter under the flat of your hand before cutting them in half. This releases juice from the small sacs of the lemon. A reamer or juicer, either hand or electric, can be used to extract juice.