Leeks have traditionally been more popular in Europe than in the United States. Looking rather like a monster version of the scallion, the leek has a milder flavor than its relatives, the onion and garlic. The leek has a thick, cylindrical white base usually an inch or more in diameter that may widen at the root end. The top portion of the stalk is composed of broad, flat dark green leaves that are tightly wrapped.

• Tender young leeks may be very thinly sliced and added to a salad.
• Leeks may be sliced or split lengthwise, steamed, braised or sautéed.
• Chopped leeks may be added to soups and egg or cheese dishes, such as omelets and quiches.
• Leeks are a classic ingredient in the chilled potato soup vichyssoise and the Scottish soup cock-a-leekie.

Leeks can be found year-round, but they are most plentiful from fall to early spring.

Although sometimes sold individually, leeks are usually displayed in bunches of three or four. The smaller the leek, the more tender it will be. Leeks over 1-1/2 inches in diameter can be tough and woody. Choose ones with firm bright green stalks and white blemish-free bases. Avoid leeks with split or oversize bases. Leeks from a farmers' market or produce stand may contain more hard-to-clean garden soil between the leaves than their supermarket counterparts.

1 pound leeks = 2 cups chopped.

Leeks may be stored, loosely wrapped in plastic, in the refrigerator for up to a week.

To prepare leeks, trim off the roots. Remove any withered outer leaves. Use a chef's knife to cut off the leaf tops down to where the dark green begins to pale. The green tops are too tough to eat but may be used to flavor stocks.

Leeks are notorious for collecting soil and grit between the leaf layers. Make a deep cut into each leek lengthwise to within an inch of the root end. (If the leek is cut into halves it will fall apart.) Rinse leeks thoroughly under cold running water to remove embedded soil.

To remove stubborn dirt, soak them in a bowl of water for 15 minutes, changing the water until it is clear and the leeks are free of dirt.

The leeks can be cut into halves or quarters, then sliced or chopped, if desired. Leeks may be braised, steamed or sautéed. Avoid overcooking them. Overcooked leeks will be soft and slimy. Cook them until they are crisp-tender.