Endive and chicory are often used as interchangeable terms, but they actually refer to two different families of greens. To further confuse matters, European and American or common and scientific definitions may switch. The three rather different varieties of endive are: Belgian endive, curly endive and escarole.

• Belgian endive and curly endive may be eaten fresh in salads. The sweet inner leaves of escarole are also good in salads.
• The slim scoop-shaped leaves of Belgian endive are well designed for use as dippers or to hold fillings.
• Belgian endive may also be served braised or baked as a side dish.
• Curly endive and escarole may be steamed or cooked briefly for side dishes or as ingredients in soups.

Belgian endive, also called French endive, is grown as a small (4 to 6 inches long), tightly packed oblong head. The white to very pale green color is the result of a tedious cultivation process that involves growing the heads in complete darkness. Belgian endive has a slightly sharp, piquant flavor.

Curly endive is the variety often mistakenly called chicory. The large heads shaped like an open flower have dark green outer leaves and light green to cream-colored leaves at the center. The curly notched leaves have a slightly bitter taste and are curled tightly at the tips, giving them a prickly feel.

Escarole is similar in shape and color to curly endive with smoother, broader leaves and a milder flavor.

Belgian endive is available September through May with its peak season being November through April. Curly endive and escarole are available year-round and are most plentiful from June to October.

For Belgian endive, choose crisp, firm creamy-white heads with well-formed light yellow tips. For curly endive and escarole, select crisp heads that are free of insect damage or discoloration.

1 (4-inch-long) head of Belgian endive = 1 serving.

1 pound head of curly endive or escarole = 3 cups torn greens.

Belgian endive begins to turn pale green and taste bitter when exposed to light. Wrap it in paper towels and store it in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for only a day or two. Curly endive and escarole, well wrapped, will keep in the refrigerator about one week. All greens should be stored unwashed.

Belgian endive should be rinsed under cold water. When used as dippers or to hold fillings, separate heads into individual leaves. For cooking, cut heads in half lengthwise.

To clean either curly endive or escarole, separate leaves from the head and swish the leaves in a large bowl or sinkful of water. Repeat this process several times, if necessary, to remove embedded sand or soil. Drain and pat dry. Tear into bite-size pieces for salads or cut crosswise into slices or shreds for cooking.