Eggplants originated in Asia, probably India, but most Americans associate them with the cuisine of southern Italy where they have been popular for hundreds of years. Many varieties of eggplants have been cultivated since ancient times. The most common variety in America is the large, elongated dark purple eggplant. The pale yellowish-white flesh, which becomes soft when cooked, has a mild almost bland taste that combines well with many flavors.

• Eggplant can be breaded or battered and fried. When baked with tomato sauce and cheese it becomes the popular Eggplant Parmigiana.
• It is an important ingredient in pasta sauces and stews.
• Caponata, a Sicilian dish served as a salad, side dish or relish, is made with eggplant, onion, tomato and seasonings.
• Eggplant is the main ingredient in the Greek lamb-and-eggplant casserole, moussaka.
• Grilled eggplant, which is served as a side dish or layered with other grilled vegetables in vegetarian sandwiches, is gaining in popularity in the United States.

Western eggplant is the most common in the United States. It is large and cylindrical with smooth, glossy dark purple skin. It can become bitter as it ages.

Japanese eggplant is slender and 5 to 7 inches long. It can be purple or purple and white striped. Its flavor is sweeter and milder than the Western variety.

Italian eggplant looks like a miniature version of the western eggplant with a more delicate skin and flesh.

White eggplant is small, white and egg shaped with a tough skin that requires peeling. It has a firm, sweet flesh.

Chinese eggplant is long, slender and lavender in color or round, tiny and white.

The common western eggplant is available all year with the peak months of August and September. Other varieties are less readily available. Look for them in large supermarkets, specialty produce markets or farmers' markets.

Choose firm, smooth-skinned eggplants that feel heavy for their size. Avoid those with blemishes or soft spots. The stem should be bright green and look fresh. Usually, the smaller the eggplant the sweeter and more tender it is.

1 pound eggplant = 1 medium; 3 to 4 cups chopped.

Eggplant becomes bitter with age. Purchase them within a few days of using. Store unwashed in a cool, dry place for a day or two or in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to five days.

Rinse eggplant under cold running water; pat dry with a paper towel. Trim off and discard the stem end. Young eggplants have delicious, edible skin; older eggplants and white eggplants should be peeled. Peeling can be done with a vegetable peeler or a paring knife. Since the flesh of eggplant discolors rapidly, peel it just before using. Cut eggplant into crosswise or lengthwise slices with a chef's knife.

To remove any bitterness, draw off moisture and reduce the amount of oil absorbed during cooking, the western variety of eggplant is often salted before cooking. Begin by slicing the eggplant according to recipe directions and placing the slices in a colander. Sprinkle cut sides with salt. Allow to drain for 30 minutes; then rinse and pat dry with paper towels. An alternative method is to allow salted eggplant slices to stand between several sheets of paper towels weighted with a heavy plate for 30 minutes. Then rinse, drain and pat the eggplant slices dry with paper towels.