Corn is one of a handful of indigenous American crops. It has played an important and sustaining role in American culinary history. Pilgrims, arriving at Plymouth with barley and wheat plants, followed Native American ways and planted corn. It was fortuitous, as their barley and wheat plants failed while the corn thrived. Since then, it has become a major United States crop. Although most corn is grown as animal feed, it is also an important food source. Many uniquely American foods, such as corn bread, corn chowder, corn fritters, corn pudding and succotash, are based on it. It can be used fresh, dried or ground into meal for use in cereals and snack foods. Dried, hulled and treated, it becomes hominy, which can be cooked in stews or ground into a coarse meal known as grits. A variety known as popcorn is dried and then heated until it puffs. Corn also provides fuel (ethanol) and important secondary products, such as corn oil, cornstarch and corn syrup.

Sweet corn has been significantly improved through hybridization. There are now more than 200 varieties with sweetness being one of the most desired attributes. In the 1950's, super-sweet strains were developed and those were further improved with "sugar-enhanced" hybrids. Names such as Butter and Sugar, Silver Queen, Sugar Loaf and Golden Nectar indicate their sweet nature. White, or shoepeg corn, is a type of sweet corn with small, sweet kernels. Other major types include field corn, which is used as animal feed; flint, or Indian corn, of which blue corn is a variety; and popcorn.

Corn from the midwestern Corn Belt comes in season in mid July, peaks in August and ends by early September. Crops from Florida lengthen the season at both ends. A small demand for corn exists all year, filled by the Mexican supply. Canned and frozen corn kernels, as well as frozen ears, are widely used. Canned ears of baby corn, used in Thai and Chinese cooking, also are available.

Ears of corn are sold both shucked and unshucked. The convenience of shucked corn is not usually enough to offset the loss of quality. Select ears with soft, pliable outer husks free of worm holes. The silks should be golden and soft, like grass. Limit the habit of pulling back husks to inspect the corn as exposed kernels lose quality more quickly.

1 ear of corn = -1/2 cup kernels. 1 (10-ounce) package frozen corn = 1-3/4 cups. 1 (12-ounce) can drained, whole kernel corn = 1-1/2 cups.

The recommendation has long been to take corn from field to pot as quickly as possible since the sugar in corn begins a conversion to starch as soon as it is picked. Sugar-enhanced corn stores longer and does not need to be cooked immediately. However, corn should be bought at a supermarket with high turnover or local farmers' markets and used quickly. Store ears in the refrigerator, husks and silk intact. Ideally, it should be used within 24 hours, especially when served on the cob.

Removing husks and silk from an ear of corn is called shucking. To shuck corn, pull outer husks down the ear to the base. Snap off the husks and stem at the base.

Strip away the silk from the corn by hand. Remove any remaining silk with a dry vegetable brush or a corn-silk brush.

Trim any blemishes from the corn and rinse under cold running water.

Traditionally, corn on the cob is boiled in water and served plain or with butter and salt. Cooking time varies from 3 to 7 minutes. Corn toughens if it is overcooked. Drop ears of corn in boiling unsalted water in a Dutch oven and cook until tender. Always cover the Dutch oven so the steam can cook the portions of the ears that are not submerged. Corn microwaves well; follow manufacturer's directions.

To cut kernels from the ear, holding the tip of one ear, stand the corn upright on its stem end on a cutting board or in a shallow dish. Cut down the side of the cob with a utility knife, releasing kernels without cutting the cob. Repeat while rotating the ear until all kernels are removed. Kernels can be used for salads, soups and relishes.

For cream-style corn, chowders and corn puddings, press down along each cob with the dull edge of a knife to release the milky liquid, which is a great addition to these dishes.