Although cultivated in Europe and the Mediterranean region since the sixteenth century, major production in the United States only began in the 1920's. Today most of the cauliflower sold here is grown in California. The cauliflower head contains small, tightly compact white florets on thick stems. The entire plant is edible, including the leaves. Cauliflower has a cabbagelike flavor that is milder after cooking. While growing, the outside green leaves envelop the cauliflower head protecting it from bright sunlight. This assures a creamy white head.

Most common is the creamy white variety, but a purple variety is also available.

Fresh cauliflower is available all year with its peak season from late fall to spring. It is sold in heads and as florets. Frozen cauliflower is also available.

Choose firm, heavy heads with compact florets. Leaves should be crisp and green without signs of yellowing. Avoid heads that have a speckled appearance or brown spots. A medium head of cauliflower weighs about two pounds.

1 pound trimmed cauliflower = 1-1/2 cups florets. 1 (10-ounce) package frozen cauliflower = 2 cups.

Because cauliflower acquires a strong odor with long storage, plan to use it within one week. Store it unwashed in a perforated plastic bag. Washed raw florets, tightly wrapped in plastic, will keep refrigerated for three to five days. Cooked cauliflower does not store well. It is best to cook only what will be eaten at one meal.

Cut the leaves from the cauliflower by slicing through the stem between the head and leaves with a chef's knife. Remove and discard the leaves and stem. Cut around the core with a paring knife; remove and discard the core.

Rinse the head thoroughly under cold running water. Cook whole, or separate the head into florets using a paring knife. Place the whole head, stem side down, in a large pan. Cook it covered in one inch of boiling water until the stem end is tender when pierced with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes. Florets can be steamed, boiled or stir-fried until crisp-tender.