Blackberries, closely related to raspberries, are the sweet summer fruit of prickly shrubs called brambles. The berries themselves are sometimes called brambles as well. They are a lustrous purplish-black color. Each berry technically is made up of multiple fruits, since each tiny segment contains its own seed. Blackberries grow wild and the careful eye may happen upon them along country roads and trails. Most, however, come from cultivated plots. Although they are often mistaken for black raspberries, the two are quite distinct.

• When fully ripe, blackberries are excellent for eating plain or with sugar and cream.
• They make delicious pies and cobblers, especially when combined with other berries. The English favor them mixed with apples in pies.
• Blackberries also are used in ice cream, sweet sauces and preserves.

Wild and cultivated blackberries are available; the cultivated form have slightly larger berries.

The season extends from May through August. Oregon, Washington, Michigan, New Jersey, Texas, Oklahoma and Arkansas are large domestic producers. Winter supplies come from Chile and New Zealand. Fresh blackberries are usually sold in half pints. Blackberries canned in syrup are also available.

Select plump berries that are glossy, almost black in color and feel slightly soft. Hard berries are probably not fully ripe and will be quite tart. If the berries are packed in a clear plastic container, check for moldy and crushed berries. If they are packed in a paperboard container, inspect the bottom and sides of the container for stains, which signal that some berries have been crushed. Crushed berries mold quickly.

1/2 pint blackberries = 1 cup; 1/2 cup purée.

Blackberries are highly perishable and should be refrigerated only for a day or two in the original container or spread in a single layer in a pan and covered with a damp paper towel. Before storing them, discard any moldy berries.

Do not wash berries until you're ready to use them. Pick through and discard any damaged berries before rinsing lightly with cold water. Spread them on paper towels to dry. A food processor or blender can be used to purée them. Because they have so many seeds, the purée is usually strained through a sieve.