Asparagus, once an anxiously awaited harbinger of spring, is now available almost year-round. However, springtime does bring a plentiful supply at reasonable prices. Whether it's grown wild, cultivated in plots, or carefully tended underground so shoots are completely void of color, asparagus never fails to excite its fans. Asparagus is the tender shoot of a perennial vegetable from the lily family. It grows best in parts of the United States where the ground freezes in winter and the summers are warm. Domestic production is supplemented with imports from Mexico and Chile.

Most of the asparagus available in the American markets is green. Purple asparagus, with purple tips and leaves, and the rare and more costly white asparagus, readily available in European markets, are seen infrequently in American produce markets. White asparagus, sometimes called Belgian asparagus, is really green asparagus grown underground so that the spears are never exposed to light. It is considered a delicacy.

Asparagus is sold in most months, although off-season, at a premium price. Prime season begins in late February or early March. From there, the supply increases dramatically and the price falls to match the abundance. By mid-summer, the domestic supply diminishes and is replaced by imports. Cut and whole spears are also available frozen and canned.

Select firm, smooth green stems with tightly closed tips; tips that are open are a sign of age. Look for even green shading along the whole length; ends that become lighter in color may be a sign of toughness. Avoid wilted spears and asparagus that has a strong odor. In the produce department, select bunches of asparagus that are kept upright with their bases in water.

1 pound asparagus = 12 to 15 spears; 3 cups, cut spears.

The best storage method is to keep asparagus upright with the stems in several inches of water. Or, wrap the bunch in damp paper towels and place in a plastic bag. Since it loses its natural sugar during storage, asparagus should be refrigerated as quickly as possible and used within a day or two for best flavor.

The first consideration is whether to peel. Some purists insist that peeling is necessary, but others are not convinced. Slender stalks do not need to be peeled, unless a more elegant presentation is desired. Stems that are thick or woody are best peeled with a vegetable peeler or paring knife, beginning just under the tip and going all the way to the end in long sweeps. Or, peel only the stem ends. Peeling improves the texture of the stems and allows them to cook as quickly as the tender tips.

It is often recommended that stems be flexed because they will break where the stem is too tough to eat. This practice, however, wastes too much of the vegetable. It is preferable to trim off ends that appear dried, shriveled or woody and peel as necessary. Leave spears intact or cut into one-inch pieces. A diagonal cut is attractive for asparagus pieces.

Asparagus can be steamed or boiled. In a deep skillet that is large enough to hold the stems (or a large saucepan for pieces), bring water to a boil and then add the asparagus. Boil 4 to 6 minutes or until crisp-tender. Remove whole spears from the water with tongs and transfer them to several layers of paper towels to absorb excess water. (Drain cut pieces in a colander.) If desired, the cooking water can be salted. Stir-frying, roasting and grilling are other methods for preparing this vegetable.